More Gujarati Goodness in Jackson Heights

Chaos thrives in the Queens neighborhood of Jackson Heights, and the area in turn seems to hold itself together by the same chaotic mash-up of cultures, culinary offerings, varied street life and architectural diversity (gorgeous Deco apt buildings stand side by side with near-derelict shanties and multi-dwelling gingerbread curiosities). Cafe Drake regularly trolls these crowded streets in search of amazing and unusual Indian food, both grocery stores and eateries, and a new fave for us is the decidedly unassuming steam table-dominated pastry/candy shop known as Ragbhog Sweets (72 - 27 37th Avenue, Jackson Heights, Queens, NY 11372) . Skip the desserts (many varieties of fudges, pastries, cookies and cakes) unless you favor the ragged sugar high of psychotically sugary subcontinental sweets and head to the back for the $7 lunch special. A recent visit snagged us a huge whole wheat roti bread, stewed tomatoes dotted with mustard seeds and fried vermicelli crisps, plain but tasty cauliflower curry, chat seasoned onions, a buttery rice and veggie pilaf and that Gujarat oddity known as patra, whereby giant tropical leaves are steamed and then rolled - maki style - around a filling of sweetened chickpea paste and all is fried with hot chiles, coconut and lemon juice. Very authentic so utensils are provided only upon request, but so sensual is the lovingly spiced grub you may want to give the traditional Indian method of eating with your (clean, please) fingers a try.