From the Vaults, Part VI

As a regular feature at the Cafe Drake website, we like to raid our hand-scribbled recipes and long-term memory now and then. And thus present to you below a few seasonal favorites geared towards cooler evenings. While simple to prepare, all of the dishes below are tasty enough to serve to guests - and we have. All of them. References available upon request.


TOMATO-CHEDDAR SOUP

The classic combo of tomato soup with grilled cheese morphed into a one-pot supper.

1 cup or so grated Cheddar / 1 T. flour / 2 T. butter / 1 onion, diced / 1 cup whole milk / 1 28-0z. can of whole tomatoes / 1 t. allspice / kosher salt and black pepper

1. First toss the grated cheese with the flour and set aside.
2. In a large pot cook the onions in butter until soft but not brown. Add milk to pan and simmer on low for 4 minutes.
3. Remove pot from heat and whisk in cheese, slowly by the handful.
4. Add tomatoes and their puree, the allspice and salt and pepper. Cook very gently for a couple of minutes and do not allow to boil.
5. Puree in blender, return to pot and re-season as needed.
6. Serve quite hot.

ROOT VEGGIE SLAW

This reminds us of a divine starter of Celery Root Remoulade at NY's fabulous Le Grenouille. And we don't even like celery.

1/2 cup creme fraiche / 3 T. cider vinegar / a little more than 1 T. Dijon mustard / 1 t. sugar / 1 t. kosher salt / 3-4 trimmed and peeled small parsnips / 2 trimmed and peeled carrots / 1 small trimmed and peeled celery root / 6 scallions, thinly sliced, white parts only

1. In a large bowl mix together well; creme fraiche, cider vinegar, mustard, sugar and salt.
2. Cut all veggies into very thin matchsticks, about 2 inches in length.
3. Add to dressing and toss in scallions. Adjust seasoning and chill for an hour or two at least.
4. Serve cold.

THE BEST (AND EASIEST) LAMB BURGERS

A toasted bun or buttered English muffin is optional here, but whether with or without bread, top the patties with a flavorful relish for extra kick. Cafe Drake loves a simple mix of roasted red peppers, Kalamata olives and fresh mint.

Mix together about 1 1/2 lbs of ground lamb with some chopped parsley, a bit of cayenne pepper, a clove of minced garlic and plenty of kosher salt and black pepper. Go bold with the salt - you will need at least 1 full teaspoon.

Grill or pan-fry carefully for about 3-4 minutes per side for medium-rare, a bit longer for medium.



CREAM OF GREEN SOUP

An elegant use of late summer/early fall lettuces and herbs. To obtain a truly velvety soup you will need to not only blend but also put the soup through a strainer or fine mesh sieve; if you're fine with a more rustic finished product, skip this last luxurious (but rather laborious) step.

1 T. butter / 4 shallots, minced / 4 cups of water / about 1 1/2 t. or more of kosher salt / 1 package of frozen peas / 15-20 sorrel leaves, stems removed / 20 leaves of butter lettuce (i.e. Boston or Bibb etc) / 1 cup whole milk / fresh lemon juice to taste

1. Cook the shallots in butter until soft.
2. Add water and salt to the pot and bring to a boil. Add peas. Cook about 5 minutes.
3. Remove from heat and add milk, lettuce and sorrel. Puree in batches in a blender.
4. Return puree to soup pot, adjust seasoning and re-heat gently to serve warm.
   

MAPLE AND BLACK PEPPER CHICKEN

This is a dish we'll make over and over at Cafe Drake this autumn. Try it with a simple slaw of shredded red cabbage and sliced pears.

2 t. whole black peppercorns / 1 chicken cut into 6 pieces (have the butcher do this) / 2 t. + kosher salt / 1 T. olive oil / 1 shallot, chopped / 2 T. fresh thyme leaves / 1/3 cup cider vinegar / 1/2 cup maple syrup (Grade B is fine)

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees and coarsely grind peppercorns.
2. Season chicken pieces with 1 1/2 t. salt then brown in a large skillet in olive oil. You will need to do this in two batches. Do not skimp on this step - proper browning should take 7-10 minutes, skin side down only.
3. Place all chicken in a roasting pan and roast for 35 minutes.
   
4. While meat is roasting, make the sauce: In 2 T. of fat left from browning chicken, saute shallot and thyme with a bit more salt. After 2 minutes add vinegar. Scrape up any brown bits as vinegar boils then add maple syrup and black pepper. Simmer for 8 minutes until sauce is reduced nicely.
   
5. Adjust seasoning of sauce then pour over roasted chicken and serve at once.