Skip to main content
Authentic Mexican with Octavio in Bushwick
The Bad News first about El Paisa (324 Suydam Street, Brooklyn, NY 11237): revoked liquor license means you can skip the cocktails and cerveza section of the menu because the restaurant is dry as the Sonoran desert. Good News includes: a leafy location across from Maria Hernandez Park, a staggeringly large selection of authentic homestyle Pueblo classics, friendly service and generally satisfying food. Octavio and Cafe Drake split an order of Nachos Regulares ($7), which isn't what you get in most Tex-Mex or Americanized joints, but rather a platter of just-fried tortilla chips scattered with sliced avocado, crumbled queso fresco, diced tomatoes and jalapenos and two sauces to moisten everything - a creamy avocado-based salsa verde and a thick, brown salsa of pureed dried chiles. Octavio liked - but was underwhelmed slightly - with his entree of Shrimp in Garlic Sauce ($13), though the portions are generous and the plate of shellfish arrives with sides of pinto beans and warm tortillas for scooping up the rich sauce. Cafe Drake was much happier with spicy beef enchiladas ($9), drenched with potent mole poblano and nestled alongside a green salad, chopped radishes and fluffy tomato-flecked rice. Overall, you could do a lot worse than El Paisa. And probably will.
The Bad News first about El Paisa (324 Suydam Street, Brooklyn, NY 11237): revoked liquor license means you can skip the cocktails and cerveza section of the menu because the restaurant is dry as the Sonoran desert. Good News includes: a leafy location across from Maria Hernandez Park, a staggeringly large selection of authentic homestyle Pueblo classics, friendly service and generally satisfying food. Octavio and Cafe Drake split an order of Nachos Regulares ($7), which isn't what you get in most Tex-Mex or Americanized joints, but rather a platter of just-fried tortilla chips scattered with sliced avocado, crumbled queso fresco, diced tomatoes and jalapenos and two sauces to moisten everything - a creamy avocado-based salsa verde and a thick, brown salsa of pureed dried chiles. Octavio liked - but was underwhelmed slightly - with his entree of Shrimp in Garlic Sauce ($13), though the portions are generous and the plate of shellfish arrives with sides of pinto beans and warm tortillas for scooping up the rich sauce. Cafe Drake was much happier with spicy beef enchiladas ($9), drenched with potent mole poblano and nestled alongside a green salad, chopped radishes and fluffy tomato-flecked rice. Overall, you could do a lot worse than El Paisa. And probably will.
Comments