Restaurant Review: Delhi Palace

Delhi Palace (37-33 74th St., Jackson Heights, NY 11372 718/507-0666)

Punjab Barber Shop ( 74-20 37th Road, Jackson Heights, NY 11372 718/533-0052)

Absolutely determined is Cafe Drake to try all Indian buffets within mini-Delhi/Mumbai/Calcutta/Goa, also known as Queens' Jackson Heights neighborhood, primarily underneath the elevated train along Roosevelt Avenue from 70th to 80th streets. Recently we double-dipped in the exotica of the region and

a) sampled an early Saturday morning shave at a second-story barber shop on 74th St and 37th Road, authentically Raj (with the exception of the price difference; the same royal treatment in India would have cost a mere 35 cents as opposed to a paltry $5 in Queens) followed by

b) a new buffet spot blocks away.

The shaving experience was deeply relaxing despite shoddy surroundings,as the afore-mentioned fiver bought Cafe Drake a half-hour respite from modern and harried life in a reclining chair. Firstly, scented (rosewater, natch) and warmed towels were applied to the face, followed by a sandalwood oil massage, hot lather and a squeaky clean straight razor shave. More oils followed, talcum powder was applied and finally, a 5-minute final massage to the jowls rounded out a heavenly sojourn. We're pretty sure we drifted off around 11AM, soothed by the confidence of the razor-wielder and the laconic sitar lullabies from loudspeakers.

Feeling as fresh and dashing as a Bollywood heartthrob, Cafe Drake strolled past our usual favorites (Jackson Diner and Raj Palace) to Delhi Palace, unassuming from the storefront but startling and grand upon entrance. 14-foot+ hand painted murals on both primary walls depict Indian villagers cavorting with Hindu gods (the 8-limbed Lakshmi and our beloved elephantine royalty stock figure, Genesha) The analogy can be extended to the $11 buffet: vegetarian offerings proved transcendent while routine meat dishes were peasant at best.

Skip the grey roasted chicken, pallid tandoori poultry, bony goat curry and stringy lamb vindaloo and head straight for the left wing of the buffet table. All of the South Indian dishes were superb: among many favorites were an okra curry, creamy yellow lentil dhal toasty with red chiles, remarkable idlis (fermented rice flour cakes) supplemented with all the trimmings (spicy sambar, coconut chutney, mint chutney, coriander chutney, onion relish, pickles and chocolaty tamarind gravy), an unexpected paneer and cashew curry (richer than anything a carnivore could guiltless consume) and Cafe Drake's tangy fave, deep-fried pakora dumplings stewed in a buttermilk and chickpea flour gravy.

While we'll never denigrate the legendary Jackson Diner, Delhi Palace is somewhat less-crowded (no 20 minute lines to reach the tables) and Yes, masala dosas (to order!) are not only included in the $11 price tag but brought to your table by kindly, efficient waiters. A Mango Lassi ($3.50) is the ideal accompaniment to this feast, but excellent spiced Indian tea ($1.50) is an alternative should one reach saturation too quickly.