Restaurant Review: Revamping an Old Favorite

Freemans (End of Freeman Alley, off Rivington Street near Bowery; New York, NY, 10002; 212/420-0012)

The Lower East Side's tucked away jewel Freemans, in a previous incarnation, lived as a manque speakeasy, burdened with lazy DJs, overwhelming crowds and pricey drinks but made fab by its cloistered location. Secretive and unmarked, this space exudes exclusive charm, the kind you fight against and brand bourgeois but privately adore for a naughty nighttime revel. Sadly the restaurant replacing the bar has fallen on hard times in recent months, battered in the local press with grim reviews and ghastly yarns of criminally rude service. Cafe Drake so loved the world of Freemans however we decided to give it another shot. Knock wood, all complaints seem either false, exaggerated and/or the problems have been quickly corrected, as our latest visit was yet another lovely trip to a fairy tale urban cabin decked out with taxidermy and rustic curious decor. Call it Adirondack Gothic (we're copyrighting that term, BTW).

Our hostess dealt out warm greeting and secured us two seats at the tiny bar while we waited patiently for a table. Apparently bad press hasn't deterred the punters, as even on a weeknight after 10PM the wait list is substantial. So famished were we after a movie based on wilderness travels culminating in fatal starvation, starters were ordered and woofed down at said bar. Very on-point were Grilled Cheddar Toasts ($6) and a meltingly smooth Housemade Wild Boar Terrine ($12), thoughtfully sided with huckleberry jam, perfect toast points and spiky cornichons. Hefty, hearty appetizers - combined with doubles of cocktails called Yankee Mint Juleps ($10) - left us needing to share an entree of Roasted Cod with Leek, Bacon and Cockles Chowder ($21). Foolish to leave a single bite so all was quickly consumed as the end of a enchanting evening.