Sunday in the (Sunset) Park with Susan & Sloane

Sunday found Cafe Drake in Sunset Park, Brooklyn visiting Susan and Henry and offspring Sloane, touring the neighborhood on a crisp autumn day and grabbing a sneak peak at the McKeever-Duys' brand new pad. Henry is speckling and building and wiring the place to perfection while Susan has picked a warm color palette of varied shades to compliment the home's light airiness and spacious spread. Before grabbing a quick drink at a local watering hole whose vintage 1950s signage promised more retro charm than the dank interior delivered, we lunched at Maria's Bistro Mexicano (886 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11232, 718/438.1608). Warm service immediately made us feel at home in the unjustifiably deserted restaurant; the same service proved spotty by the meal's finale but being rushed out from your table is not a worry at this lazy eatery. Just try getting that check!

Good salsa (fire-roasted tomatoes, pureed dried chiles) and chips are complimentary, and large portion of the made-to-order guacamole is a requisite; served in a traditional molcajete (mortar crafted from porous volcanic rock) the dip is loaded with creamy chunks of avocado, spicy green chiles, sweet onions, juicy scarlet tomatoes and fresh cilantro. $7 buys you a weekend brunch, complete with endless cups of deep, rich coffee tweaked subtly with ground canela (cinnamon sticks). The Chile Relleno was very nice and surprisingly complex in flavor, from the eggy batter to a mixture of cheeses stuffed inside and all crowned with a sweet-tart tomato salsa. A Stuffed Pork Loin topped with poached eggs was tender and novel, but undersalted and saddled with runny egg whites. Perfectly fine black beans and rice are served with most entrees. The Salmon Ennegrecido ($13.95) got previous good reviews from Susan (in an orange-chile sauce; "perfectly cooked") and the judicious menu offers several unusual Southern Mexican specialties we have our eye on in the future.