A Jewel in Crown Heights

Ital Shak (780 Nostrand Avenue, Crown Heights, Brooklyn, NY)

On a West Indian stretch of Nostrand Avenue both sides of the street are lined with Caribbean eateries and groceries, many specializing in vegetarian and vegan cuisines. Several creative meatless interpretations of Jamaican standbys can be had from the steam table at Ital Shak, an unassuming, 24-hour take-out tucked away among the many bright-colored vendor awnings.

Must-trys include fried faux fish cakes (no flesh of any sort on offer here); vegetarian fish stew, constructed from wheat gluten chunks wrapped in briny nori seaweed and simmered with onions and peppers; meltingly soft eggplant slicked with orange palm oil and a facsimile of curried goat, as rich as the real deal but made from soya protein. Also good: gooey mac-and-cheese studded with red peppers, simple but tender collard greens and chickpeas in a curry sauce laced with branches of fresh thyme. For $7 you get a choice of 5 items - go with two friends, order diversely and you'll be able to sample the entire menu.

Pics above of nearby Eastern Parkway and a shady snacking spot snagged by Cafe Drake and Thordis. Sleeping old men on benches only add to the charm.