Cafe Drake in ATL: Part IV (The Restaurant Reviews)

One Midtown Kitchen ( 559 Dutch Valley Rd NE, Atlanta, GA)

Tucked away on an obscure side road flanking Piedmont Park (Atlanta's inner-city oasis of rolling meadows and urban forest), One Midtown Kitchen glows austerely amidst the heavy foliage, radiating soft blue light from horizontal stripes of low-wattage neon adorning its modernist, wooden exterior. Low lighting prevails indoors as well, most of it emanating from dozens of tiny dangling pendant lights, with its dark ceiling the dining room suggesting a galaxy of falling stars. At the end of the building a giant picture window looks across a sprawling lawn and uplit oak trees. Clearly, very flattering lighting.

But within this serene, stylized environment high energy characterizes the mood. Both our waiter and host wore over-the-top personas (but terribly friendly). Oh and yes, Cafe Drake and Mother arrived on Prom Night. Happily the rented tuxes and sequined gowns were all herded to tables across the vast room, next to a sprawling bar area. But we were feeling festive enough ourselves, and soon were sipping chilly rose wine and munching on flatbreads and hummus, whisked to the table upon seating.

A cheese plate ($10) was very good, although only one of the three selections was local - we would have loved to see the entire platter devoted to Georgia's growing (and award winning) artisinal cheese industry. Jumbo specimen calamari ($10) proved the best appetizer however, with each giant tentacle lightly fried in a spicy batter, protruding from a pool of pepper jelly mayonnaise. Cafe Drake could have gobbled down at least two more portions. Sophisticated spins on Southern standbys soon arrived from the kitchen, including a crusty yet succulent long-roasted beef brisket ($18), paired with pimento cheese risotto and a watermelon and sweet corn salad. Mother's scallops ($20) were enormous (where do they shop for these huge sea creatures?), perfectly seared, fork-tender and seasoned just enough to enhance their sweet and salty goodness.

Shaun's Restaurant ( 1029 Edgewood Avenue, Atlanta, GA)

Inman Park is one of Hotlanta's most charming neighborhoods, fine old homes and cozy bungalows buried behind impeccable gardens and a lush, tree-filled landscape. And somehow everything just seemed more inviting on a stormy night. Glistening on a residential corner beneath lashing rain and lightening sat Shaun's the solo project from accoladed head chef (and owner) Shaun . A true darling of the national food press, Shaun's is all uncluttered calm inside, wainscotted walls and off-white and cream tones dominate.

Now, to the less agreeable parts; namely, the exorbitant prices and elitist wine list (less than 3 or 4 selections under $40). A Pork Wiener schnitzel with Parsley and Peanut Salad and Grilled Vidallia Onions ($26) was cooked well enough, and boasting an intriguing combo of flavors, but couldn't live up to its hefty price tag. Overall the entire ensemble dish would have benefited from some moisture - a sauce or a condiment like mustard. Mother had Tempura Batter Fish and Chips ($26), and while the deep-fried grouper was light as air - and the soupbowl of accompanying homemade tartar sauce most welcome, the fries were pedestrian.

Negative, much? Well perhaps Cafe Drake and M were spoiled by a shared appetizer worthy of a place on the Mains menu: a carefully crafted (and large) antipasto platter ($16) loaded with the greatest hits of the kitchen. House-cured duck prosciutto. Briny and plump olives. Wedges of exquisite Parmesan cheese. Clever pickled eggs. A mini-tureen of chicken liver pate. If heading to Shaun's, stick with the antipasto and a glass of wine and everyone will leave happy and still able to pay their mortgage.

Sunflower Cafe ( 5975 Roswell Rd NE, Atlanta, GA)

Vegetarian restaurants come in two varieties, shaped by either an ethical-based philosophy or one motivated strictly by health concerns. The former tend to be great fun with their decadent and rich fare (think lots of cream, cheese, deep-fried offerings etc) while the latter - if not intensely creative - often feel punitive in nature. The politically incorrect might call this "rabbit food". Sunflower Cafe manages to stride the fine line between the two extremes, and even confirmed carnivores will enjoy the peaceful patio out back, thoughtfully shaded from the scorching Georgia sun. Mother enjoyed a Grilled Portobello Mushroom Sandwich ($11) while Cafe Drake noshed through a huge bowl of Indonesian-style noodles ($11) in a hearty coconut milk sauce. The pasta was cooked perfectly and while intense, the sauce did not overwhelm the delicacy of even the fresh oyster mushrooms dotted throughout.

Flip Burger ( 1587 Howell Mill RD NW, Atlanta, GA)

Local celebrity chef Richard Blaise has made quite an impression on the Atlanta dining scene since his appearance in the finale two years ago of TV's Top Chef. With something like four or five restaurants dotted throughout the city, Blaise's brand of comfort food by way of molecular gastronomy is finding a welcome home in the Deep South. Nowhere more than Flip Burger do the two dining concepts come together better, i.e. a dessert selection featuring liquid nitrogen-tweaked "milkshakes" in flavors like fois gras and pistachio-truffle.

While we enjoyed a lunch of Shrimp Burgers, a Moroccan Lamb Burger with house-pickled veggies and homemade harissa, vodka-battered onion rings and crisp fries, the chef du jour himself strolled through, casting an approving eye over the bustling, ultra-mod, all-white dining room. Playful as his menu can be, the flavors are serious. Seriously good! Cafe Drake's lamb burger was tender and dripping with spicy juices, while Mother's shrimp burger was an culinary engineering marvel of minced shrimp held together with who knows what?

Lunch for two with a glass of wine runs about $50.