Cafe Drake on a Ramps-age

These wild onions, a relative of the scallion and leek, and indigenous to North America from Florida to Canada, are much loved at Cafe Drake. Like most good things, ramps are only with us for a few fleeting weeks, always from Late Spring to Very Early Summer. We found a way to drag the love affair past its natural expiration date by air-drying the veggies overnight, then sealing tightly in freezer bags and placing in deep freeze; they thaw in 5 minutes and lose only a little of their lovely pungency. This is probably your last week to stock up at your local farmer's market or vegetable stand, so go grab some and try the simple recipe below. You're crazy if you don't.

SCALLOPED POTATOES WITH RAMPS

Perfect with baked ham, this is rich and hearty enough to serve as a vegetarian main course if served with a green salad.

6 cups sliced potatoes / 3 cups ramps (rough estimate, but USE all the long, leafy green stems) / salt and pepper to taste / 1/2 cup chicken broth / 3/4 cup heavy cream / 1 1/2 cups shredded cheddar cheese

1. Place a layer of sliced potatoes in a buttered 1 1/2-quart casserole, follow with a layer of ramps and a sprinkling of salt and pepper.


2. Repeat layers, ending with potatoes.


3. Combine chicken broth and heavy cream; pour over potatoes and ramps.


4. Bake at 375° for 45 minutes, then top with grated cheese.
   
5. Return to the oven for about 15 to 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender.

This should serve 6-8 as a side dish, or at Cafe Drake, 2-3.