Winter Warming Trends

The Russian author Chekhov claimed he kept warm on long winter nights via the transporting qualities of the classic novels he devoured whilst living in Siberia. There may be few substitutes for a good book, but a lovely way to proceed an evening on the sofa snuggled under the blankets with your latest read is a steaming bowl of restoring, nurturing soup. Perfect for the darkness of January and plummeting temperatures, these bowls of comfort below reheat easily and - true to the dictum - taste even better the following day; thereby saving you a needless (and COLD) trip back to the supermarket and more time to hibernate indoors.

Both of the recipes below can easily be made with vegetable stock instead of chicken, though the taste will be slightly less satisfying on the Chinese concoction. If you choose to substitute a vegetarian broth, perhaps consider adding a bit more oil to the soup, or if appropriate to your diet, a handful of large prawns in the last 3 minutes of cooking.

CHINESE HOT AND SOUR SOUP

After trying many recipes for this Peking classic, and fruitlessly guessing at the secret ingredient(s) in a few favorite local restaurant versions, the formula below qualifies as tried-and-true by the test kitchens of Cafe Drake. If serving as a starter, try following the spicy soup with another regional dish from Peking - a simple beef stew slowly simmered with onions, soy sauce, water, orange zest and red chiles. Add a bowl of plain steamed rice and a few perfect pears for dessert and you've assembled a meal fit for any emperor.

1 block of tofu, drained and cubed / 6 dried shitake mushrooms, well soaked in a cup of warm water / 1 medium onion, chopped / 2 T. peanut oil / 2 pints chicken broth / 2 T. soy sauce / 3 T. vinegar / 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper / 2-3 dried red chiles, crumbled / 1 1/2 T. cornstarch blended in 3 T. water / 1 egg / sesame oil and salt to taste

1. Chop mushrooms and reserve soaking liquid.


2. Heat oil in large saucepan and add onions and mushrooms and cook over medium-high heat for 2 minutes.


3. Add broth and bring to a full boil. Add tofu and mushroom soaking liquid.


4. Bring to a second boil and add soy, vinegar and both types of pepper.


5. Simmer for only 5 minutes or even slightly less.


6. Pour in the cornstarch mixture and stir until thickened and glossy.


7. Beat the egg in a bowl then SLOWLY pour across the entire surface of the soup.


8. Season with sesame oil and salt if needed and serve topped with chopped scallions (or not).

ACORN SQUASH AND APPLE SOUP

One of the more delightful versions of a fairly overdone soup, this recipe is filling yet light on the palette and supremely fresh tasting. We love it at Cafe Drake with buttered and crusty sourdough bread rolls.

2 medium acorn squash / 1 quart chicken or vegetable stock / 3 green apples, peeled and diced / 1 small onion, chopped / 1 T. fresh chopped ginger / 1 T. fresh lemon juice / 1 cup apple cider / sour cream or yogurt for garnish

1. Bake the squash at 350 degrees for 45 minutes.


2. Cool, cut in half, remove seeds and core.


3. In a large pot add squash along with broth, apples, onion and ginger and cook on low for 10 minutes.


4. Stir well so squash pulp is well integrated into liquid.


5. Add cider and lemon juice and simmer for about 20 more minutes until all is tender.


6. Puree in blender and serve very warm topped with a dollop of sour cream.