Cookbook Reviews September 2007

How to Eat; Nigella Lawson; 2004

Note the title of the book, and while instructional and staffed with many varied recipes, the bold wording gives a hint at Lawson's real purpose here: to (quite chattily) impart her personal philosophy on the serving and consumption of food. Basically the rules are simple and relaxed and all revolve around reclaiming a peaceful, stress-less relationship to food, whether that be lapses of dietary restrictions (go ahead and add an extra cup of cheese to that baked ziti) or the notion that home cooking should be quite separate from the refinements of restaurant dining. The concentration here is on Food as Autobiography, with many heartfelt memories of family meals for Lawson (her mother and sister - both deceased - figure prominently as characters throughout the book) and suggestions for creating the same in your own life. Above all, fussiness is eschewed in favor of good company and fellowship, in making all guests welcome and comfortable, in pleasant meals consumed by one's self with a book or DVD. Nigella imparts casualness to all meals as she serves every single one in her kitchen, granted on a gorgeous Irish farmhouse table and surrounded with Elizabethan wood paneling and fireplace. Still, Lawson never worries over a split glass of claret or a gravy stain on the tablecloth, and this infectious approach to elegant food served with a carefree attitude is admirable en extremis.

As expected and appropriate most recipes hail from the culinary traditions of her native British Isles, and while Steak and Kidney Pie is not everyone's idea of a cozy Sunday dinner, her roast chicken certainly will be; other favorites which we've sampled or earmarked for the future include Beef Fillet with Red Wine, Anchovies and Thyme; Pea, Mint and Avocado Soup; Cod Wrapped in Ham; Sage and Onion Lentils and Hazelnut Cake. The sample recipe below evokes the old English tradition of mixing port with Stilton but updates it for the truly international kitchen. We made it once and proceeded to make again two days later!

Gorgonzola with Mascarpone and Marsala Crostini

4 oz. crumbled gorgonzola / 1/2 cup mascarpone / 2 T. Marsala wine / nutmeg / chopped parsley / toasted thin slices of a baguette, drizzled with olive oil

1. Mash the first three ingredients in a bowl.


2. Add a sprinkle of nutmeg, stir again and keep covered in the fridge for at least 1 hour.


3. Bring to room temperature and spread on crostini, sprinkled lightly with parsley.

World Cuisine: Morocco; Mohamed Fedal, Frederic Fetiveau, Fatema Hall; 2004

Three top chefs from one of the world's most exciting and extensive cuisines have come together to craft this tiny jewel of a cookbook. At only 120 pages there is no wasted space and rarity of rarities, almost every recipe is one you will want to recreate in your own kitchen. Thankfully overly exotic ingredients are kept to a minimum and traditional long-cooking methods requiring speciality pans and unorthodox heating sources have been rethought for the modern cook. The recipe below is a breeze to assemble and like most soups improves in flavor overnight; only add the nuts however previous to serving.

SHORBA AL-DAYAY BI-L-YAUS (Chicken and Walnut Soup)

2 lbs assorted chicken pieces / 3/4 cup walnuts / 1 large onion, sliced / 1 inch piece of ginger, peeled and chopped / 2-3 cloves garlic, chopped finely / chicken stock (you will need at least 1 quart) / salt & pepper / olive oil / coriander seeds / chopped parsley

1. Heat some olive oil in a large soup-pot and fry the onion and garlic till golden but not brown.


2. Add the chicken, ginger, coriander seeds, salt, pepper and stir well for 5 minutes. (We added a bit of cumin powder here and thought it a success)


3. Add chicken stock to cover all ingredients, lower heat to a simmer and leave for 20-30 minutes.


4. Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed, adding more stock if required.


5. Toast walnuts in a 350 degree oven for 10 minutes or so, taking great care to not burn.


6. Garnish soup with generous sprinkle of nuts and parsley.