Pacific Northwest Restaurant Reviews (PART III)

Woodstone Inn (734 Georgeson Bay Road, Galiano Island, BC, 250-539-2022)
Daystar Diner (96 Georgeson Bay Road, Galiano Island, BC, 250-539-2505)
Hummingbird Pub (47 Sturdies Bay Road, Galiano Island, BC, 250-539-5472)

In the middle of a dark stretch of the moody north Pacific sits Galiano Island, sparsely populated, densely forested and with an approximate 10-1 ratio of deer to humans. Luckily for Cafe Drake we found friendly locals and several excellent eateries amidst the rugged grandeur of towering pines and rocky beaches. Deep in a temperate rainforest sits the improbably luxe Woodstone Inn. Crisp white table linens, cream-colored walls and French doors in the dining room mercifully provide contrast to the wilderness encroaching on all sides. Driving here, through the pitch black night and primeval vegetation of Galiano Island can be a humbling experience (second only to the ferry ride for those of us without sea legs), but instant reward awaits through Woodstone's front door.

Only two entrees appear on the tiny but well-rounded menu, and both are accompanied by two previous courses (changing daily). We started with a velvety Yukon Gold Potato Soup, served with piping hot homemade bread and generously topped with white truffle oil. The intense earthiness of the ingredients was tempered nicely by the high fat content of the soup, nearly ivory in color from the inclusion of heavy cream. Soon to follow was a Chicory and Pear Salad (the Northwest in October is mad for the fruit it seems), raised far above ordinary standards by a sweet and sour brown mustard seed dressing. Both main courses available were extraordinary - a Wild Coho Salmon filet got the richness boost that particularly lean member of the salmon family needs with a soy-citrus glaze and bed of wild rice and sweet potato pilaf, while the rack of baby lamb chops were perfectly pink beneath a mustard and pistachio crust (sided with mashed root vegetables and oven-roasted tomatoes). Perhaps best of all was a Warm Raisin Bread Pudding with Butter-Rum Sauce. As forks dug into the custardy dessert, the chef stepped out from the kitchen to introduce herself - and was greated with showers of deserved praise!

Casual meals on Galiano Island can be found at the Hummingbird Pub and Daystar Diner. The latter is far from the expected urban lunch counter; instead, it sits on low stilts, in view of surrounding mountains and is warmed by a well-stoked fireplace. Staffed by displaced ravers, Daystar Diner boasts spot-on fresh haddock burgers ($9.95) and a menu geared toward healthy bar food. Hummingbird Pub, across the street, posseses the vibe of the popular kid on the block, perhaps due to its singular status as the lone bar on the island. The bare wood interiors are atmospheric and more interesting than the grub, but the Fish and Chips ($8.00) and a Seafood Club Sandwich (7.95) were still better than average.