Pacific Northwest Restaurant Reviews (PART 1)

(photos: La Conner, Washington; views along Chuckanut Drive; Seattle)

Etta's (2020 Western Avenue, Seattle, WA, 206-443-6000)
Brasserie Margaux ( 401 Lenora Street, Seattle, WA, 206-777-1990)
Eva's (2227 N. 56th Street, Seattle, WA, 206-633-3538)
Oyster Creek Inn (2190 Chuckanut Drive, Bow, WA, 360-766-6179)
Horseshoe Cafe (113 East Holly Street, Bellingham, WA, 360-734-0380)
Dos Padres (1111 Harris Avenue, Bellingham, WA, 360-733-9900)
Seeds (623 Morris Street, La Conner, WA, 360-466-3280)

Prime people-watching in Seattle seems to be centered around the famous Pike Market, the neighboring streets of colorful Belltown and the historic Pioneer Square district. Conveniently located close to all yet set across the street from the teeming throng of shoppers, with picture windows designed for prime viewing, is Etta's, a casual cafe of sorts and home to the best Bloody Mary ($7.50) we've sampled in many a brunch. People, that is really saying something given our proclivity for liquid weekend meals. Full throttle in the heat department, thick and salty and still packing a vodka kick, this classic morning favorite is nearly redefined by Etta's bartenders, served in a full pint glass and garnished with pickled asparagus. Main dish standouts included a creamy and golden Chanterelle and Egg Scramble ($12.95) and light and fresh Haddock and Chips ($10.95).

A second Seattle breakfast was slightly less successfull, but kudos to Brasserie Margaux's Pacific Salmon Hash ($12.95) and bottomless carafes of hot coffee. The best meal in the city however goes to Capital Hill's Eva Restaurant, a reasonably-priced, casually elegant dining room, festooned with wintery bare tree branches glowing with indirect, soft lighting. Classic cocktails can be had for $6-$7 here, including a selection of single-malt Scotches! Drinks go down easily with a basket of warm wholegrain rolls and slices of soda bread, but choosing from the uniformly appetizing menu is considerably more difficult. Start with one of the best-dressed salads on the West Coast - a mix of organic baby lettuces, local pears, spiced almonds and Manchego cheese ($6.95), and continue on to the supernaturally moist Loin of Rabbit ($15.95). This choicest morsel of the hare is actually roasted inside the breast of the animal, as explained by our gracious and informed waitress. Almost as good as the bunny is the wedge of chorizo bread pudding the meat sits atop, and all in a pool of russet-toned sherry au jus. Even heartier is the (again, unbelievably) moist sliced pork tenderloin ($14.95), partnered with homemade hazelnut spaetzle and a confit of stewed fruit.

A scenic drive 90 miles north on I-5 takes you past llama farms, logging plants and endless mist-shrouded mountain vistas, all painted in somberly beautiful shades of gunmetal gray (the sky) and forest green (the omnipresent blanket of fir trees). Chuckanut Drive is a shaded access roadway as unique as its name, with the Pacific Ocean and nearby islands almost continously in view amidst the twists and turns. Set amongst the treetops is the Oyster Creek Inn in Bow, WA.
Dated in decor - and hauntingly empty in late October - this is still probably the best choice for fine dining in this heavily rural area. The clam chowder (cup: $5.95), served with the crustaceans in shell, is an absolute must and a premier example of an old favorite. The fried oysters ($15.95), scooped from Samish Bay (a mere 100 yards beyond your table) are particularly small specimens, and in an affront to their extreme freshness, coated with a heavy crust of bland breadcrumbs and sided with a predictable tartar sauce of no distinction. A special of halibut with pear compote ($19.95) was better - simple but cooked until just opaque and enlivened by a nest of warm pan-fried cabbage. Props should be given as well to a particularly balanced wine list, with many half bottles available (including a $17.95 Sancerre perfect for the seafood-heavy menu). A bumbling waitress who struggled through every aspect of dinner service, from the removal of plates and flatware to the uncorking of a bottle, was nonetheless friendly and warm.

At the far end of Chuckanut Drive lies Fairhaven, Bellingham, Washington's oldest district - an outlying suburb with the feel of a rugged frontier town. The western theme is taken indoors at the Horseshoe Cafe; with a long wooden bar and walls of gilt frame mirrors, the dining room suggests an upscale saloon or a rococco version of a Wild West watering hole. The charm of the surroundings somewhat towers over the food, although a lunch special of Butternut Squash Lassagne ($10.95) was quite good, and the Ceasar Salad ($9.95) comes topped with tasty local bay shrimp. A real treat is the comprehensive wine list devoted exclusively to Washington State vineyards, including a house Chardonnay uncommonly good and priced at $4.50 by the glass!

Fairhaven also boasts a Mexican restaurant with a backroom bar straight out of Bring Me the Head of Alfredo Garcia, and top-shelf margaritas for $5.50. The chicken nachos (7.95) were excellent and layered with cheese and salsa, while a salsa verde burrito ($6.95) was seasoned purely with gringos in mind. The geographic phenomenon of unflappable friendly waitresses is in full effect here at Dos Padres.

Less than an hour away is the charming town of La Conner, Washington, tucked away behind several miles of farmland and flat prairie landscapes. This tiny hamlet, improbably enough, is home to a score of antique shops, a waterfront complete with totem pole, and at least three museums and a handful of unique restaurants. With two fireplaces, a sophisticated menu and cosiness to spare is Seeds, a great spot for dinner or (in our case) a pre-dinner cocktail. The pear martini ($7) is highly recommended for its sweet/strong combination of pear-infused vodka, the nectar of the fruit and the spicy kick of fresh ginger.

Check back later this week as we review Gulf Islands dining options (ferry required!) and the culinary marvel that is Vancouver, British Columbia.