Chutneys for the Holidays

It seems something is always roasting in the oven at Cafe Drake during the holiday season - pork loins crusted with applesauce and horseradish, quick apricot-glazed duckling, the proverbial chicken for easy weeknight dinners with friends, long-cooking shanks of lamb simmering in red wine, turkeys and hams for special occasions. A general rule of thumb is that all baked meats benefit from the textural and flavor contrast of a spicy chutney condiment. We have dozens in our repetoire, and sometimes devote Sunday afternoons to whipping up a handful for use through the week. As most will keep in the refrigerator for at least 7 days, having a few exotic meal boosters can enhance any lunch or dinner, including those lazy nights relegated to take-out. Below are a few favorites that can be thrown together in a matter of minutes, and will be far superior to anything you buy in a jar!

KASHMIRI WALNUT CHUTNEY

The yogurt included in this unusual chutney takes out most of the heat, leaving a nicely mild flavor that is especially good with baked fish or chicken breasts.

1 cup shelled walnuts / 4-5 whole dried red chiles / 1/2 cup plain yogurt, stirred until smooth / 1/4 t. garam masala (in the spice aisle) / 1/2 t. salt (or so) / 1 t. powdered sugar (blends easier)

Combine all ingredients in a blender and process until smooth.


APPLE OR QUINCE CHUTNEY

Use either fruit - quince are nice in autumn when in season.

1 T. canola oil / 1 t. ground coriander / 1 t. ground ginger / 1 t. cayenne pepper / 1 fresh green chile, minced / 2 lbs. peeled and cubed Granny Smith apples or quince / 1 cup sugar / 1/4 cup cider vinegar / 1/4 cup dried currants

1. Combine oil, coriander, ginger, cayenne and green chile in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook for 2 minutes.
2. Add the remaining ingredients, bring to a boil and cook over a lower heat until thickened. This takes 20 minutes or so.
3. Cool completely then refrigerate.

ZUCCHINI PACHADI

A southern Indian household staple, this pachadi is great on meats or fish cooked with tomatoes.

2 cups plain yogurt / 1 medium zucchini, shredded / 1 green chile, chopped / 1 t. canola oil / 1 t. black mustard seeds (find these and keep in your pantry, as they add complexity to many Indian and Western dishes) / about 12 leaves of cilantro / 3 whole dried red chiles / salt to taste

1. Whisk the yogurt in a large bowl until smooth. Add the zucchini and green chile and mix.
2. Heat oil in a skillet over a medium flame. When the oil is hot, add the remaining ingredients except for the salt. Stir well for 2 minutes to prevent burning and to mix flavors.
3. Pour over the yogurt and stir well. Chill FIRST, and THEN, season with salt to taste.