Sharon Springs, NY

Recently loaded with 24 ounces of Greenpoint iced coffee, a full pack of American Spirit Lights and an arsenal of CDs (including Macaque's recent The Chinatown EP), Cafe Drake hit the NYS Thruway (and its alarming myriad of tolls) en route to Cafe Adalsteinsdottir-Herbert in Montgomery County, New York. On the way we fed our historic mansions jones with a quick pit-stop in downtown Albany to tour the Schylluer House. And Hands Down the best 18th century French scenic wallpaper EVER!

A dozen missed turns later, we were cruising US-10 to T-Dogg and Da Herb's upstate pad - a gorgeous and carefully renovated 5-bedroom farmhouse in God's and cow's country. Scrumptious al fresco dining on the patio, barn swallow-infused naps in the comfy hammock, Ostego Lake-side scenic drives and tours of a half-dozen Northern hamlets followed, as well as breakfast at Black Cat Bakery, so-so gringo Mexican at the gloriously campy Tepee, cocktails in the posh gardens and salon of The American Hotel and a Cooperstown Beverage Trail featuring four wineries and micro-breweries (preggers Thordis served as designated driver) all followed.

Best of all was the gracious hospitality of our professional hosts.