Philadelphia Restaurant Reviews: April 2007

Rouge (201 South 18th Street, Philadelphia, PA, 215/732-6622)

Washington Square (201 West Washington Square, Philadelphia, PA, 215/592-7787)

James on 8th (824 South 8th Street, Philadelphia, PA, 215/629-4980)

Southwark Bar (701 South 4th Street, Philadelphia, PA, 215/238-1888)

Fork (306 Market Street, Philadelphia, PA, 215/625-9425)

Just off elegant and historic Rittenhouse Square sits Rouge, a tiny restaurant and site of a most satisfying recent lunch. With walls completely draped in fabric and plush mauve carpeting throughout, Rouge is a cozy cocoon of an establishment, just the sort of well-appointed spot we love mid-day. Beginning glasses of Sauvignon Blanc were shockingly pricey, but $15 gets you a perfect burger heaped with sauteed onions, grated Gruyere and impeccable tomatoes. A silver basket of fries on the side, an efficient staff and the aforementioned surplus of atmosphere combine to earn tiny Rouge a big 4 stars from Cafe Drake.

Few better choices to start the evening off than Washington Square, named after the quaint park it borders but decidely more mod than the classic city architecture surrounding the new building. Interiors by Todd Oldham are dramatic to say the least, with gauzy curtains descending from 30 foot ceilings and delineating the individual rooms. The lighting is just right (think massive chandaliers with 2-watt bulbs and you get the delightfully dark picture) and the lounge is comfortable and inviting. Nearly reclined on a lush banquette, surrounded by ottomans in a muted zebra print, Cafe Drake and our traveling companion Jen Lazzaro sipped very professional Manhattans while admiring the surroundings and friendly employees.

With backup reservations at Gayle Restaurant and Tangerine, we opted for the latest buzz spot for dinner, and couldn't have been happier with James on 8th, obscurely located on the residential border of Philly's Little Italy. The house cocktail - the Jameshattan - proved a revelation, concocted of the usual suspects but powered by a whiskey infused with cinnamon, dried fruits and orange peel. Garnishes of swirled cinnamon sticks and liquor-plumped raisins completed Cafe Drake's idea of perfection ina chilled glass. Perhaps it was these devishly good libations that truly kicked off what shall forever more be known as Night of a 1000 Manhattans.

A shared appetizer of foie gras with fruit compote ($14) was extraordinarily creamy, and matched superbly with a bottle of obscure prosecco ($37). (Truthfully the wine list at James is disturbing in its sheer void of lesser-priced options) Entrees were uniformly excellent: an olive-oil poached sea bass filet ($26) draped itself over a chickpea puree studded with chopped mussels; the Platter of Lamb ($26) consisted on three different cuts of the meat, swirled with a sweet au jus and mounds of teeny tiny early season vegetables. Portions are miniscule here however, so also much appreciated was the complimentary amuse bouche of pickled radish and mizuna greens. Two scoops (um, teaspoons) of homemade ice cream ($4) consisted of Salted Caramel and Cardamom, the latter topped with a poached apricot. Again, James on 8th can only be regarded as minaturist in philosophy, with bi-focals required to find the last of those 3 peas served as a side, but offering food this delicious and plating so achingly beautiful, we'll not complain further. Bargain-rate macchiattos ($2) and the best service this side of the Mississippi earns James on 8th an eternal close place in our hearts.

Southwark is a rolicky neighborhood bar distinguished by a stellar assortment of the finest rye whiskies on the planet, most of which are mixed into the menu's SEVEN house Manhattans. We sampled at least two varieties before heading to an unnamed second-floor bar for dancing before bedtime. Even crushing hangovers the next morning didn't deter these troopers from more city touring and brunch at Philly's revered Fork. Warm lighting and soft tones eased any pain from the night before, as did the strong coffee ($2) and fruit and nut wholegrain rolls. Mains of Brisket Sandwich with Honey Carrots and Cheddar Grits ($10) and a simple omelette with a side of bacon ($11) were most welcome, as was the Fork Bloody Mary ($8) meager in size but potent in all the important ways.