Craving Cassoulet

Cassoulet is a peasant dish raised to the level of nobility through slow, careful cooking and luciously rich ingredients. Nowadays the variations are endless in modern, upscale kitchens; wily Wiley Dufresne at WD-50 even replaces the traditional duck confit with a version composed of pickled octopus. Our favorite memory of this beloved casserole is one served in the main dining room of The Griswold Inn in picture-perfect Essex, CT. Rich and warming beyond description, it certainly helped that the entree was preceeded by escargots in butter and parsley, and consumed fireside while serenaded by Christmas carolers! No matter your surroundings, you'll instantly create festive cheer if you serve cassoulet to guests, as this classic must be approached as a labor of love to be shared with dear ones. Because of the expense and effort, any host is fully justified in skipping a starter and ending only with a fruit dessert and coffee. The recipe below is our idea of a true cassoulet, and while you may groan at the complex instructions, approach preparation as the true event it is - a once-a-year extravagance guaranteed to vanquish winter blahs. A bottle of Syrah, consumed throughout the day, helps too. We've broken the process down into easy-to-follow steps, so onward without fear to the best meal you'll make in 2007!

CAFE DRAKE CASSOULET

1 lb dried white beans (preferably Great Northern) /8 1/4 cups cold water /2 cups beef broth /1 tablespoon tomato paste /2 cups chopped onion (3/4 lb) /3 tablespoons finely chopped garlic (6 large cloves) /1 (3-inch) piece celery, cut into thirds /3 fresh thyme sprigs /1 bay leaf /3 whole cloves /3 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs plus 1/2 cup chopped leaves /1/4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns /1 (14-oz) can stewed tomatoes, puréed or finely chopped with juice /4 confit duck legs (1 3/4 lb total) /1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil (if necessary) /1 lb cooked garlic pork sausage or smoked pork kielbasa, cut crosswise into 1/3-inch-thick slices /2 cups coarse fresh bread crumbs (preferably from a baguette) /1 1/2 teaspoons salt / 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Soak and cook beans: Cover beans with cold water by 2 inches in a large bowl and soak 8 to 12 hours. Drain in a colander.
Transfer beans to a 6- to 8-quart pot and bring to a boil with 8 cups cold water, broth, tomato paste, onion, and 2 tablespoons garlic. Put celery, thyme, bay leaf, cloves, parsley sprigs, and peppercorns in cheesecloth and tie into a bundle with string to make a bouquet garni. Add bouquet garni to beans, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until beans are almost tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Stir in tomatoes with juice and simmer until beans are just tender, about 15 minutes more.

Prepare duck and sausage while beans simmer: Remove all skin and fat from duck legs and cut skin and fat into 1/2-inch pieces. Separate duck meat from bones, leaving it in large pieces, and transfer meat to a bowl. Add bones to bean pot.
Cook duck skin and fat with remaining 1/4 cup cold water in a 10-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring, until water is evaporated and fat is rendered, about 5 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until skin is crisp, 3 to 6 minutes more. Transfer cracklings with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain, leaving fat in skillet. (You should have about 1/4 cup fat; if not, add olive oil.)
Brown sausage in batches in fat in skillet, then transfer to bowl with duck meat, reserving skillet.

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Make bread crumb topping: Add remaining tablespoon garlic to fat in skillet and cook over moderate heat, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in bread crumbs and cook, stirring, until pale golden, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in chopped parsley, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and cracklings.

Assemble casserole: Remove bouquet garni and duck bones from beans and discard, then stir in kielbasa, duck meat, remaining teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper.
Ladle cassoulet into casserole dish, distributing meat and beans evenly. (Meat and beans should be level with liquid; if they are submerged, ladle excess liquid back into pot and boil until reduced, then pour back into casserole dish.) Spread bread crumb topping evenly over cassoulet and bake, uncovered, in lower third of oven, until bubbling and crust is golden, about 1 hour.