The Evening Was a Happy Blur

Above: Ben and Jen Through a Lens Blurred

Jen & Ben arrived at Cafe Drake recently on a humid summer evening, gifts of whiskey, vermouth and bubbly in hand. Immediately we found ourselves listening to records in the a/c blasted living room and sipping ice cold Manhattans. An Indian-influenced dinner (more Himalayan Rim, actually) included  Kashmiri eggplant in a rich, cream-based curry, stewed radish greens (recipe below), millet griddle cakes from Sikkim, salty and sour red cabbage salad, a raw apple paste chutney, Bhutanese cheese curry and macaroons with after-dinner espresso.

MOOLI KI SABZI (BRAISED DAIKON RADISH GREENS)

$1 a bunch fresh daikon radish greens immediately appealed to Cafe Drake when we saw them stacked in the produce bins of Jackson Heights' Patel Bros. supermarket. Further intrigue ensued while observing the mad scramble for this seasonal delicacy; two housewives stuffing bags with multiple bunches offered us their recipe for preparing, one decidley South Indian, the other following the strict Mustard Oil Dictates of Bengali cuisine. In our kitchen we sort of followed the advice of both, and as they turned out exceptionally tasty and hearty, present the Cafe Drake adaptation here:

First, you'll need to clean the radish greens. Like many similar leafy veggies, these contain a good deal of sand and dirt - we rinsed and drained our 3 small bunches 3 or 4 times. When they seem clean boil the greens for 4 minutes in a large pot, drain in a colander, immediately rinse with cold water and allow to cool. When just cool, chop into very small pieces (we used all of the stems save the bottom inch or so). Now set aside.

Heat 2 -3 T. of oil (vegetable or mustard) in a large, deep saucepan. When very hot throw in 1 t. each of cumin seeds and black mustard seeds. As soon as the mustard seeds begin "popping" add 2 dried red chilies, 4 chopped small green chilies and 6-8 curry leaves (if you them in the freezer) to the oil. Cook for a minute then add in: 2 finely chopped onions and 4 cloves of chopped garlic. Reduce heat to low and carefully cook the onions and garlic until soft but not brown; take special caution with the garlic, so prone to burning.

Now season with a bit of cayenne pepper, 1 t. salt and paprika. Throw in the chopped greens along with 3/4 cup of water. Cover the pan and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Be sure to check now and then that the liquid has not evaporated completely. When the greens are somewhat tender, serve hot garnished with chopped cilantro and scallions.