The Springy Windmills of Our Mind

Mid-Spring always brings with its sunny days and milder evenings a sort of craziness to Cafe Drake, at once rejuvenating and cleansing, and yet portentous of the dreaded heat and humidity of an inner city Summer. For now let's concentrate positively on the former.

Though it hasn't done much for our appetite, a gloriously macabre influence has held sway recently at Cafe D : we just finished the last pages of Dandy in the Underworld and commend Sebastian Horsley on his commitment to debauched theatrics in everyday Life. Bryan Ferry dubbed the memoir a "masterpiece of filth" and Cafe Drake cheerfully concurs, gobbling up episode after tragi-comic episode along a road better less chosen.

Cafe Drake is now fully set on hosting a dinner party in reverse (i.e. coffee and chocolates, followed by cheese, entree, appetizer etc) after a second viewing of Gaspar Noe's Irreversible (top photo). Once we get the film's nastier bits out of our head anyway. If we had a vid projector, how fierce would it be to screen the final 60 seconds on an endless loop throughout the meal, in all its dizzying candy color?

New Trend at Cafe Drake: Until our proverbial ship comes in, we may have to content ourselves with drinks and bar menus at some of NYC's pricier - but drop dead chic - eateries. Instead on a Benny, you can drop $40 or so for about two drinks and a couple of small shared plates at Smiths (79 MacDougal Street, New York, NY 10012, 212/260.0100) (2nd photo from bottom ) and Allen and Delancey (115 Allen Street, New York, NY 10002, 212/253.5400 - bottom photo). The former is a pistachio green and mirrored confection of a neighborhood tavern; mirrored tabletops and ceiling reflect everything so make sure you're done up before heading out, although after two Gold Rushes ($12 each) we could no longer even see that worrisome forehead blemish. Lobster Deviled Eggs ($10) were rich and extraordinary, but at 5 bucks each a rare treat and exercise in extravagance. Charred Baby Squid ($10) was a better value; tender and drenched in dense olive oil, sided with lemon confit and marinated olives, the tentacles melted in our mouth. Or maybe that was the high octane Gold Rush. We lied - we had three, not two!

A & D offered us a decent priced bottle of bubbles for $37 (cheapest on the limited wine menu) and only slightly less glamorous surroundings (think rustic trattoria tarted up with luxe drapery) but the late-night bar menu was superb: primal goodness oozed from the Rabbit Croquettes with Anchovies and stewed spicy apples ($12) and a plate of Salt Cod Fritters, zippy and fresh from a Meyer Lemon mayo ($11).