Last-Minute Meal with David S

What is about random weeknight dinners we find so enchanting? Perhaps because Cafe Drake strains to function in the Now, to always stay present, to phone an old friend at 8PM and ask them to whisk over for a casual bite. Of course modern schedules often preclude such impulsive invitations, but when all aligns and everyone is up for a catch-up with food and drink, sometimes - just sometimes - the best meals arise. Under the gun and determined as always to impress, Cafe D concocted a main course we're christening Madras Sweet and Sour Fish, and below you'll find our makeshift recipe, which if followed roughly, should yield a moist, delectable fish entree for the most discriminating of guests (and all old friends should have rigid, perfect palettes - why else have them as friends?) We splayed the sea bass fillets over a spicy pilaf of bulghur, millet and soybeans, and decorated the plate with sides of dahl, mango chutney and Indian pickles. Needless to say, so typical of Cafe Drake in Winter, the meal was preceeded by multiple Manhattan cocktails and washed down by David's lovely 2003 Syrius Bordeaux.

MADRAS SWEET AND SOUR FISH

Don't dare to worry about Indian accompaniments with this fish; the dish could reach heights of perfection over salty mashed potatoes (one dish you must NEVER underseason to avoid disappointment) or buttered brown rice. One suggestion: avoid thick cuts of fish such as cod or swordfish - trout, flounder, sea bream, barrimundi etc would all work fine)

1 lb. skinned fish fillets (we used Sea Bass) / 1 T. turmeric / 1 t. salt / 1 T.tamarind paste, mixed in blender with 1/4 cup water, 2 dates optional added to mix / 4 T. peanut oil (canola if you must) / 8 curry leaves (in better supermarkets; omit if impossible) / 2 onions, sliced in rings / 2 large green chiles, sliced / 2 T. Madras curry powder (or paste) / 4 small tomatoes, chopped very roughly / 1/2 bunch cilantro

1. Place fish in a non-metallic dish and sprinkle well - both sides - with turmeric and salt. Add more if desired, just do not, in Julia Child's words, "under-salt".


2. Pour tamarind/date liquid over fish and refrigerate for 1 hour.
   
3. In the meantime: heat oil in large skillet. Add curry leaves if using, cook for 1 minute, then add onions and chiles. Cook for 2 more minutes but DO NOT brown onions.


4. Add curry powder, cook for 1 more minute, then add tamarind liquid from fish and tomatoes.
   
5. Simmer for 5 minutes and if desired, add 1 T. honey or sugar to offset tartness. This may be a good idea for first time preparation.


6. Now add reserved fish fillets and cilantro to pan, cover and simmer over very low heat for 10 minutes. Do not exceed this amount of time.


7. Serve as desired, with fillets draped in onions, chiles and plenty of accumulated sauce.