From Russia, With Love

Soviet food feels ideal for cold weather, hearty and rich, substantial and warming during the frigid months ahead. The few recipes below are fully tested and approved by Cafe Drake. Why not throw a Czar Dinner Party on an icy January evening, utilizing the finest servingware you have and requesting guests arrive dressed to the nines? Start with a toast (champagne, naturally) and tiny boiled new potatoes, sliced in halves and topped with sour cream and caviar (the inexpensive black variety found in jars in gourmet shops works fine). Mussorsky or Tchaikovsky would be an ideal soundtrack to the proceedings. Just don't invite any Bolsheviks, have a waltz before dining, and the party should be a grand success!

CABBAGE BAKED WITH FETA

Hailing from the Moldavia region, this side dish works best if you pay special attention to the second step and thoroughly pan fry the cabbage.

1 head green cabbage, slivered / 3 T. butter / 2 T. vegetable oil / 1/4 cup sour cream / 2 large eggs / 1/4 cup chopped dill / Salt & Pepper / 1 to 1 1/2 cups crumbled feta / 1/2 cup bread crumbs / 2 t. paprika / 5 T. butter, melted

1. Blanch the cabbage in boiling water for 2 minutes then drain well.
2. Heat the 3 T. butter in a large skillet and saute the cabbage for 15 minutes over medium heat.
3. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
4. In a bowl, whisk together the eggs and sour cream. Pour into the cooled cabbage. Add dill and salt and pepper. Mix well and transfer to a casserole dish.
5. Sprinkle the feta and bread crumbs over the cabbage, then pour melted butter over all. Top with paprika and bake about 15 minutes.

SPINACH IN YOGURT SAUCE

A popular vegetable preparation throughout the Caucasus is called borani; basically almost any type of produce is cooked in butter with onions, garlic and paprika. Yogurt is stirred into the vegetables at the very end and heated carefully so as not to curdle. You could substitute the spinach here with green beans, cauliflower or Swiss chard.

5 T. butter / 1 onion, chopped / 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped / 2 bunches spinach, rinsed well and chopped / 1/2 cup plain yogurt / Salt & Pepper

1. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute for 10 minutes.
2. Add the spinach, stirring and tossing it until wilted (about 5 minutes).
3. Remove from heat and stir in the yogurt and salt and pepper.
4. Return skillet to a very low flame and warm through, mixing well, for 1 minute.
5. Serve hot.

COD, MOSCOW STYLE

A simple recipe from the home kitchens of Russia's great metropolis. Fast to prepare and using only basic ingredients, the fish is kept succulent and rich beneath the layers of good quality mayonnaise and grated cheese.

2 lbs. cod, cut into 6-8 pieces / 3 T. fresh lemon juice / 5 T. butter / flour /2 large onions, cut into rings / 1/2 cup mayonnaise / 3/4 cup grated Gruyere (or aged white cheddar) / chopped parsley or dill for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 375.
2. Place fish in a large casserole and rub with a little salt and pepper as desired. Pour lemon juice over all and let sit for about 15 minutes.
3. Melt 3 T. butter in a large skillet. Remove fish from casserole, rinse out and dry casserole and set aside.
4. Dust cod with flour and fry in skillet, turning only once, for about 8 minutes total. Remove.
5. Add onions to skillet and fry for 10 minutes.
6. Return fried fish to casserole and spread with the mayonnaise. Place onions on top and sprinkle with cheese.
7. Bake for 15 minutes or until cheese is quite browned.
8. Serve very hot with chopped herbs on top.