Labor Day 2006
PHOTOS (from top)[Jorge gets punked. David smiles.]
[Miki moves too fast for the camera!]
[A table replete with seasonal offerings]
[The hostess relaxes]
[Salt cod simmers in broth in second step of brandade preparation]
[Susan and Henry and Jen L. share a laugh]
In a move born of true genius, Jenifer Ruske wisely held the holiday celebration on Sunday evening, a cool breezy night without the lurking spectre of work the following morning. In true Clinton Hill backyard fashion, the spread was abundant, the cocktails lethal and the hostess convivial as always (is there any personality that cannot be warmed by overproof rum punch?). The photos above will give viewers an idea of the pleasantly nostalgic mood - a fond farewell to the salad days of Summer 2006 and an eager nod to dusting off the cashmere. According to those in the know, jeans will be even skinnier, sweaters more fitted and pinstripes gracing the best-dressed legs, but generously hosting friends will be in style for seasons long past our existence. Cafe Drake contributed a casserole of brandade to the party, and the recipe follows below.
BRANDADE
The salted, dried cod used as the base of this French classic has a disarmingly strong odor. Not to worry, as the 24 hours of soaking, in combination with fluffy potatoes, mellows the fish considerably. Years before bistro mania swept New York’s East Village, I had the perfect brandade on a snowy night in Montreal’s “area plateau”. It still remains to me the ultimate in sophisticated comfort food.
1 pound salt cod / 3 cups mashed potatoes, prepared as you like them / 1 clove garlic, chopped / Pepper to taste / 1 cup shredded Gruyere cheese
- Soak the fish for 24 hours in fresh water under refrigeration. Change the water at least twice during this period. Rinse thoroughly.
- Simmer the cod in a pan with water to cover for 10-15 minutes. Remove and chop finely.
- Combine the chopped cod with mashed potatoes, garlic and fresh ground black pepper. You will not need any salt. Place this mixture in individual gratin dishes, or press all into a slightly buttered casserole dish.
- Top with the grated cheese and heat until warmed through in a 350 degree oven (20-30 minutes).
For extra flavor, I often simmer the cod in a low-sodium vegetable broth, with a few springs of thyme or sage and a sliced onion. A bay leaf and handful of peppercorns also makes a subtle variation.
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