In Praise of Kumquats

Think of them as Nature's very own SweetTarts, or as a prototype of CabbagePatch Sours, but definately think of them when compiling your next grocery list. If properly ripened, the piquant little fruits should be eaten whole, in one bite, transforming your mouth from puckered sourpuss to a sweet smile at finish. Cafe Drake is so taken with the minature flavor bombs, we're serving them in everything from cocktails to roasted meats. The recipe below is quick to prepare but long on taste. See the kumquats above with their modeling partner Thordis Adalsteinsdottir.

ROASTED PORK TENDERLOIN WITH KUMQUAT MARMALADE

2 cups kumquats, quartered, seeded / 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided / 4 small shallots, chopped (about 1/2 cup) / 1 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled, seeded, chopped (about 1 cup) / 3 tablespoons minced jalapeño chiles, divided / 1/2 cup dried apricots, chopped / 3/4 cup water / 3/4 cup sugar / 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt / 2 1-pound pork tenderloins

1. Finely chop kumquats.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add shallots, apple, and 1 tablespoon jalapeño. Cook until shallots are soft, stirring frequently, about 4 minutes.
3. Add chopped kumquats, apricots, 3/4 cup water, sugar, and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Bring to boil, stirring until sugar dissolves.
4. Boil until mixture thickens, about 6 minutes. Transfer marmalade to small bowl. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons jalapeño. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cool, cover, and chill. Rewarm before serving.)
5. Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Sprinkle pork with salt and pepper. Add pork to skillet; brown on all sides, about 10 minutes total.
6. Transfer skillet to oven; roast pork until thermometer inserted into center registers 145°F, about 15 minutes. Remove pork from oven; let stand 10 minutes.
7. Cut pork into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Serve with warm marmalade.

The citrus and sweet fruit flavors present here go very well with sweet potatoes, either roasted or mashed. A perfect dessert to balance the entree's strong flavors might be thick Greek-style yogurt, spread thinly on a plate, drizzled with honey and sprinkled with cinnamon and walnuts (always a crowd pleaser at Cafe Drake).