Fondue Fun for Winter

We don't understand fondue's current status as a cheesey relic of the Swingin' Seventies. But then again we feel the same way about The Hustle and Leif Garrett. You don't have to be a retrofile to enjoy a dinner of melted cheese and high octane booze however, so either dust off your parents' rusting set or pick one up on Ebay or your local kitchen supply store. Fondue as a meal is communal, highly festive and perfect for the plummeting temperatures. So whether it's apres-slopes or the office, invite a few selective friends over for a night of fondue. The old Swiss tradition dicatates that whoever drops their bread in the pot must then kiss everyone at the table. Again, invite selectively when assembling your guest list.

Below are a couple of recipes we especially enjoy here at Cafe Drake, where the fondue pot barely has time to soak overnight before we fire it up again. Another Swiss rule is to serve hot tea with the fondue, presumably to aid in the digestion of pounds of melted cheese. Never have we suffered a stomachache after fondue, so Cafe Drake recommends a crisp white with the meal, or even a fruity rose. If you're planning on losing your bread in the mix on a regular basis, you might want to spring for bubbly. A botle of champagne will soon have everyone tossing their bread aside and plying you with oily kisses.

ROSE FONDUE

1 clove garlic, halved / 8 ounces rose wine / 4 ounces grated Gruyere cheese / 8 ounces grated red-veined Cheddar cheese / 3 teaspoons flour / 2 teaspoons kirsch / Cubes of sesame-coated French bread

1. Rub the inside of the fondue pot with the cut side of the garlic.
2. Add the wine and heat until bubbling, then gradually stir in the cheeses until melted, stirring frequently.
3. In a small bowl, blend the flour smoothly with the kirsch and stir into the cheese mixture. Cook for a couple of minutes until smooth and thickened, stirring frequently.
4. Serve with cubes of French bread.

ISRAELI FONDUE

2 avocados, halved and seeded / 3 teaspoons lemon juice / 1 clove garlic, halved /3/4 cup dry white wine / 3 cups grated Edam cheese / 2 teaspoons flour / 5 tablespoons thick sour cream / Cubes of sesame-coated French bread / Cubes of red and green bell pepper

1. Scoop out flesh from avocados into a bowl and mash until smooth with lemon juice.
2. Rub the inside of the fondue pot with cut clove of garlicc, then pour in wine and heat until bubbling.
3. Over a gentle heat, stir in cheese and cook until melted, stirring frequently.
4. In a small bowl, blend flour smoothly with or sour cream, then add to cheese mixture with mashed avocados. Continue to cook for 4 to 5 minutes until thick and smooth, stirring frequently.
5. Serve with cubes of bread and red and green pepper.

There are many, many other variations possible of course; creativity and an adventurous spirit will yield new favorites in your kitchen. We're wild for a Welsh version of sharp English cheddar and beer, soaked up with roasted sweet potatoes. A Highlands Fondue can be assembled from wine, Scotch whiskey and orange cheddar. Or try the Dutch variety, composed of Gouda, gin and caraway seeds.