Birthday at Zenon Greek & Cyprian Restaurant

Zenon Taverna. 34-10 31 Avenue, Astoria (718) 956-0133

It's hard to not enjoy a meal when surrounded by loved ones, and I'll be the first to admit that the warm zeitgeist of my recent birthday dinner may have colored my overall impression, but the food at Zenon taverna in Astoria's Greektown can stand on its own even if scarfed from paper plates in the backseat of taxi cab (or some similarly unpleasant environment). As a group of 7 we sampled the three full dinner options – Vegetarian, Seafood and the Cypress Dinner. A simple table covered with a white linen cloth and sparsely adorned with fresh sunflowers was soon replete with dish after dish of Cyprian specialities, including the native retsina wine (an acquired taste which I seem to develop after the second glass) and ceramic pitchers of the very drinkable house red.

The fleet-footed waiter is constantly streaming between the kitchen and table, with each visit depositing new plates of an astonishing variety of dishes. Beginning with warm flatbreads and slices from an olive wholegrain loaf, we feasted on fresh tahina dip, tarmasalota, tzkiki, tangy beets, eggplant chopped with feta and a truly remarkable Greek salad. Throughout the evening a new surprise arrived unbidden: platters of smoked ham, two types of meatballs, homemade sausage of an intriguing richness, grilled vegetables, charred octopus seasoned with sea salt and olive oil, fried cheese rubbery and toothsome, tender calamari, both deep-fried and dressed in a vinagarette, various filets of fish and everywhere, the bite of fresh lemon and Greek herbs. We closed the evening with a semolina and honey cake and the regional coffee, black and thick as tar with cooked grounds nestled at the bottom of each delicious demitasse.