Restaurant Review: The Queen's Hideaway

The Queen's Hideaway
222 Franklin Street (Green Street), Greenpoint, Brooklyn; (718)383-2355

This aptly named restaurant is tucked away on a quiet, largely residential block of west Greenpoint's Franklin Avenue. Any qualms regarding the obscure location are dismissed once you enter the charmingly rustic dining room (or walk through the slender space to a beautiful back garden). Upon being seated a bowl of boiled peanuts are placed on the table for snacking while perusing the single page menu (which changes daily and is dependent on the freshest ingredients available that morning). The nuts are slightly wet, in-shell and a wee bit tangy, cooked as they are in a vinegary spiced broth. While the selection of entrees is small, there so far have been no mistakes from the kitchen. A larger appetizer menu would be welcome, but you can't go wrong with the cheese plate ($5) (often accompanied by exotic meats smoked on the premises and seasonal fruits) or the piping hot zucchini fritters ($4). Not at all greasy, and lighter than expected, they are served with a homemade hot sauce, which while not fiery enough for my taste is loaded with flavor and a surprising sweetness.

Of the entrees sampled, all have been delicious and added to the wish list for future kitchen appearances. A plate of perfectly cooked scallops ($12), atop a melange of tiny yellow and red cherry tomatoes, saided with just-fried tortilla strips is a great choice for a light dinner. The pan-fried trout ($12), topped with a remoulade sauce, is more substantial and also cooked to retain moisture and natural flavor. Those with large appetites (i.e. moi) should go for the witty pulled pork sandwich($13), again, smoked in-house and piled atop Wonder bread slices with various vegetable sides.

Okay, now that we've strongly urged you to make a trek to The Queen's Hideaway, it's time for the lone bitchy comment (which really is meant more as a good-natured suggestion). The restaurant charges a $5 corkage fee for those bringing wine - the only option given there is currently no liquor license. This is offputting enough for diners already inconvenienced by the lack of a bar, but insult is added to injury when the waitstaff hands the opener to patrons and forces them to fend for themselves. THEN, on two visits, there were no proper wine glasses in sight and guests were sipping Cab from coffee mugs.

Hard to complain (well not that difficult obviously) given the rock-bottom food prices, and considering the carefully composed and well executed menu, but a liquor license would be appreciated. If not, then at least courteous treatment of those having gone to the bother to BYOB. Perhaps, somehow, somewhere, this review will not fall on deaf (and highly talented) ears.

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